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The long beach and blue bay at Borsh seen from Qeparo on the Albanian Riviera on a sunny day

Albania in 14 days: lakes to coast

Lakes and stone towns first; Himarë and Sarandë for the beach finish.

Trip length
14 days / 13 nights
Bases
Six bases, north to south
How you move
Bus and ferry; car optional
Airports
Tirana in; Corfu or Tirana out
Loading Himarë accommodation

The whole country, without rushing

Two weeks is the length at which Albania stops being a series of highlights and becomes a journey. This circuit runs from the north, where Lake Shkodra and the Koman reservoir sit below the Alps, through the capital and the two UNESCO-listed Ottoman towns, to the Ionian coast. Running it north to south means you finish near Corfu, which offers an alternative departure airport once the ferry and port transfers are allowed for.

The pace is deliberate. Shkodër gets two nights so you can spend one day on the Koman ferry through its gorge; Tirana gets one, enough for the bunker museum, the New Bazaar and Blloku. Berat and Gjirokastër get two nights each, which means seeing both at dusk and in the early morning, the hours when they are at their best. The coast gets six nights, split between Himarë, the town-and-beach base in the middle of the Riviera, and Sarandë, the base for Butrint, Ksamil and Corfu.

Every leg can be done by bus. Most are frequent; the two that need care are Berat to Gjirokastër, with a limited direct connection listed at 14:00, and Gjirokastër to Himarë, which means changing in Sarandë. A rental car for the southern half adds stops at the Blue Eye, Porto Palermo and the smaller beaches, but brings narrow mountain roads and scarce parking on the coast.

Late May to June and September are the best months: the ferry is running, the sea is warm by June, and the towns are not yet too hot.

The Koman ferry day

Berisha's round trip leaves Koman at 09:00 and returns from Fierza at 13:00, threading the narrow reservoir between steep, wooded walls.

Two stone towns at dusk

Two nights each in Berat and Gjirokastër mean evening walks after the tour groups leave and castles at opening time.

Himarë and Butrint

Give Himarë three nights for a beach and a boat outing, then use Sarandë for Butrint and Ksamil. Reserve the shore you want in peak summer rather than counting on uncrowded beaches.

A Tirana food stop

The New Bazaar gives the short capital stay a useful focus: market stalls and dinner on foot, with Blloku for the evening if time remains. Keep a terminal transfer separate from the sightseeing.

Icons inside Berat's citadel

Allow a separate museum visit for Onufri's collection in the Church of the Dormition. The lived-in castle lanes and the museum have different visiting arrangements; check museum hours before climbing.

A stone-house visit in Gjirokastër

Choose Skenduli or Zekate for the interiors and domestic architecture after the fortress. Ask about access and tours at the house you choose, and leave the uphill walking for cooler hours.

Best for

  • First-timers with two weeks who want the north, the stone towns and the coast
  • Travellers happy to use buses, with an optional car for the south

Think twice if

Trekkers who want the Valbona–Theth hike; swap the Koman day trip for the five-day Alps loop from Shkodër.

StartBooker answer

What is a good two-week itinerary for Albania?

Divide thirteen nights between Shkodër (two), Tirana (one), Berat and Gjirokastër (two each), then Himarë and Sarandë (three each). Most moves have direct buses, but reserve time for the limited Berat–Gjirokastër connection and the two-stage journey through Sarandë to Himarë. The capital gets an afternoon and morning rather than a full sightseeing day. Choose the final departure around the flight: a Corfu ferry needs port and airport transfers, while returning to Tirana takes most of a travel day.

Nights
Thirteen, in six bases
Lake day
Koman ferry, 15 April to 5 November
Exit
Corfu by fast boat or Tirana by bus

Six bases from north to south

Two nights or more wherever there is a full day's worth to see; one night only in the capital.

6 stops · swipe

  1. Shkodër and its rivers seen over a stretch of Rozafa's walls from the fortress on a bright day 1

    Shkodër

    2 nights

    Rozafa Castle, the Marubi photography museum and Lake Shkodra

    Stay near Kolë Idromeno for central transfer collection and the evening cafés. Hire a bike for a lake-shore outing; visit Rozafa separately, allowing for the climb above the rivers.

    Watch out: Book the Koman ferry and its transfer ahead in summer.

    Read the Shkodër guide →
  2. Central Tirana's towers and green parks below the mountains on a sunny day 2

    Tirana

    1 night

    Bunk'Art, Blloku and the New Bazaar

    One night near the New Bazaar or Skanderbeg Square: bunker museum in the afternoon, grills at the bazaar and a drink in Blloku.

    Watch out: Buses south leave from the terminal at Kthesa e Kamzës, not the centre.

    Read the Tirana guide →
  3. The old houses of Berat climbing above the green Osum river, seen from the castle hill in sunshine 3

    Berat

    2 nights

    The inhabited castle, the Onufri icons and local grapes

    Stay in Mangalem or Gorica, ideally in a restored Ottoman house, and give the castle a morning and a winery an afternoon.

    Watch out: Confirm the direct departure south and a city bus or taxi back to Berat's terminal.

    Read the Berat guide →
  4. Old stone houses among trees below the walls of Gjirokastër castle on a clear day 4

    Gjirokastër

    2 nights

    The castle's arms museum, tower houses and Kadare's home

    Sleep in the upper old town near the Old Bazaar or on Rruga Palorto; take a taxi up from the bus station with luggage.

    Watch out: Cobbled lanes are steep; pack light.

    Read the Gjirokastër guide →
  5. Clear water over the pebbles of a small cove at Himarë below a rocky headland on a sunny day 5

    Himarë

    3 nights

    Town beaches, the castle village and coastal boat outings

    Stay by Spile or Potam if you are on the bus, or at Livadh with a car; three nights allow a beach day, a boat day and a drive to Porto Palermo or Gjipe.

    Watch out: Only three buses a day continue to Sarandë.

    Read the Himarë guide →
  6. Small boats in Sarandë's central harbour below the hillside town on a sunny day 6

    Sarandë

    3 nights

    Butrint, Ksamil, the Blue Eye and the Corfu crossing

    For the final three nights, choose a promenade-area hotel to reach the local bus and ferry terminal on foot. Check the exact entrance, gradients and steps rather than relying on a sea-view map pin.

    Watch out: Central parking is hard in summer; drivers should book a hotel with a space.

    Read the Sarandë guide →

Fourteen days, day by day

Five base changes: the stone towns and coast have full days between moves, while Tirana is a shorter city stop.

1 Day 1 Straight from Rinas to Shkodër

Take the Hermes shuttle from Tirana airport to Shkodër for 1,000 lek, or the airport bus to the South and North Terminal and a Shkodër bus, about two hours. In the evening, walk the pedestrian Kolë Idromeno street and join the evening stroll. Confirm tomorrow's ferry transfer with your hotel.

  • Airport shuttle to Shkodër
  • Kolë Idromeno street
  • Booking the ferry

Base: Shkodër

2 Day 2 A day on the Koman ferry

Reserve the Shkodër transfer and ferry round trip together, confirming where you will be collected and how you return. Berisha's Koman departure is 09:00 and its Fierza return is 13:00; compare the checkout total and included transfers when paying online. Expect much of the day to be spent travelling and on the water. After returning to Shkodër, keep the evening for dinner near your hotel; put a castle or lake cycle on arrival day if you have time.

  • The Koman reservoir
  • Central Shkodër dinner after the return
  • Return transfer to Shkodër

Base: Shkodër

3 Day 3 Down to the capital

Buses from Shkodër to Tirana run from early morning until the evening and take about two hours. Drop your bags near the New Bazaar. Spend the afternoon at Bunk'Art 2, the bunker museum on the Sigurimi secret police, then eat at the bazaar and finish in Blloku, the former party elite's quarter.

  • Bus to Tirana
  • Bunk'Art 2
  • The New Bazaar and Blloku

Base: Tirana

4 Day 4 South to Berat

Choose a short city morning or an early Dajti outing, then leave enough time to reach Tirana's intercity terminal for your confirmed Berat bus. On arrival, use a city bus or taxi from Berat's terminal to the historic centre. Settle in before the riverside walk and Gorica views. If you choose the cable car, its opening day, station transfer and queue determine whether the plan fits; reserve it for another trip if it threatens the onward connection.

  • Bus to Berat
  • The promenade
  • Gorica's view

Base: Berat

5 Day 5 Inside Berat Castle

Be at the castle gate for 09:00; entry is 300 lek in cash. Families still live among its Byzantine churches, and the Onufri Iconographic Museum occupies the Church of the Dormition. In the afternoon, taste local Shesh or Kallmet at a winery, with a driver, or rest through the heat in Gorica, the cooler bank of the river.

  • Berat Castle
  • The Onufri museum
  • A winery visit

Base: Berat

6 Day 6 The afternoon bus to Gjirokastër

Use the morning for a final local visit, then reach Berat's terminal with time to find your bus. The checked GjirafaTravel listing has an Argjiro departure at 14:00, arriving in Gjirokastër at 17:00; confirm it for your date. If it is unavailable, ask about a workable connection or a private transfer before leaving the hotel. From Gjirokastër's lower town, a taxi is the practical way to reach an old-town guesthouse with luggage.

  • Direct bus south
  • Taxi to the old town
  • Tavern dinner

Base: Gjirokastër

7 Day 7 The castle and the tower houses

The castle costs 400 lek, with small extra fees for its museums, including an arms collection; the US Air Force training aircraft stands on the ramparts. Then visit Skenduli House, shown by the family's descendants, or the grand Zekate House of 1811–12. Escape the afternoon heat in the Cold War tunnel below the town hall, and end at Ismail Kadare's family house.

  • Gjirokastër Castle
  • Skenduli or Zekate House
  • The Cold War tunnel

Base: Gjirokastër

8 Day 8 Two buses to Himarë, or the Blue Eye by car

Book the earliest suitable Gjirokastër–Sarandë bus and check the onward Himarë departure and boarding point before travelling. Allow for delays, unloading bags and finding the second service; the two driving times do not equal the total journey. If the onward connection fails, compare a quoted taxi transfer with an extra Sarandë night. A driver makes a Blue Eye stop possible, but add the walk from parking and the visit to the driving time.

  • Change buses in Sarandë
  • The Blue Eye by car
  • Evening at Spile

Base: Himarë

9 Day 9 Himarë's beaches and castle village

Spend a beach morning at Spile or Potam, or arrange transport to Livadh for a longer shore outside town. Check the marked public area or the current rental total on arrival, including whether shade and equipment are included. Visit Old Himarë later for the castle-village lanes and the view towards Livadh. Take water for the climb and arrange the return into town if you are using a taxi.

  • Spile, Potam or Livadh
  • Old Himarë
  • Sunset over the sea

Base: Himarë

10 Day 10 Boats to the coves, or a coastal drive

Use this full Himarë day for the coast beyond the town promenade. A boat operator can explain the day's cave and cove stops, including whether Kakome is on the route and which beaches allow a landing. Agree the return time and check the weather policy and life jackets before departure. For an independent drive, choose Jalë's bay and Vuno to the north, or Porto Palermo's castle to the south. Limiting the outing to one direction gives you time to stay rather than rush between viewpoints.

  • Boat to hidden coves
  • Jalë and Vuno
  • Porto Palermo

Base: Himarë

11 Day 11 Along the coast to Sarandë

Buses leave Himarë for Sarandë late in the morning and in the afternoon, taking under two hours for the 52 km. By car, stop at Qeparo and Borsh, whose 7 km beach has long free stretches. In Sarandë, walk the promenade at sunset or take a taxi up to Lëkurësi Castle for the view to the Ksamil islets.

  • The coast road
  • Borsh beach
  • Lëkurësi Castle

Base: Sarandë

12 Day 12 Butrint early, Ksamil in the afternoon

Board a morning local bus marked for Butrint, which runs through Ksamil, and confirm the last departure back from the archaeological site. An individual online ticket costs 1,000 lek; leave room for the ruins and lagoon views rather than hurrying straight to the beach. Stop in Ksamil on the return if the day's buses allow it. Agree a full return price for an island water taxi and the actual bus time from Ksamil to Sarandë; an outbound timetable is not the last bus home.

  • Butrint at opening
  • Ksamil's islets
  • Last bus or a taxi back

Base: Sarandë

13 Day 13 Your last free day

Choose between a quiet morning at Ksamil's southern coves, a Corfu day trip by fast boat, about 30 minutes each way with passport checks, or the Blue Eye if you have not yet seen it. Pack for tomorrow: the Corfu ferries and the early Tirana buses both leave from the centre.

  • Ksamil's southern coves
  • A Corfu day
  • Or the Blue Eye

Base: Sarandë

14 Day 14 Out via Corfu or back to Tirana

For Corfu, allow at least an hour at the port before the sailing, the crossing itself, border procedures and transport to the airport. Ticket times use each port's local clock, with Greece one hour ahead. For an early flight, move the final night to Corfu after confirming a sailing on day thirteen. For Tirana, a roughly five-hour intercity ride is only part of the return. Add the terminal–airport connection and airline check-in time. Use a suitably late flight or return to Tirana the previous day; keep sightseeing out of this departure-day plan.

  • Fast boat to Corfu
  • Or the early bus north
  • Terminal shuttle to Rinas

Base: Sarandë

Five moves, north to south

Check the five base changes independently, especially the limited direct Berat service and the Sarandë connection on the way to Himarë.

5 transfers

  1. Shkodër Tirana

    Bus Travel time: About 2 hours by bus

    Buses run from Shkodër to Tirana's South and North Terminal from early morning until 20:30, covering 105 km in about two hours.

    Booking note: No need to book; pay in cash on board.

  2. Tirana Berat

    Bus Travel time: Just over 2 hours by bus

    From Tirana's terminal there is a Berat departure at least hourly through the day, the last at 17:00; the fare is about €7 and the ride a little over two hours.

    Booking note: Allow 15–20 minutes by taxi from central Tirana to the terminal.

  3. Berat Gjirokastër

    Bus Travel time: Around three hours on a confirmed direct service

    The checked GjirafaTravel result lists Argjiro from Berat at 14:00 to Gjirokastër at 17:00, around €11.50. This is the platform's listing, so verify the date and boarding point. Berat's terminal is outside the historic centre and needs its own transfer time.

    Booking note: Confirm the departure point and time with your guesthouse the evening before.

  4. Gjirokastër Himarë

    Bus Travel time: Two bus legs plus a connection in Sarandë

    Change buses in Sarandë, keeping a taxi or overnight fallback if the first service runs late. A car or driver simplifies this transfer. Treat the Blue Eye as a separate outing, or include its approach walk in a driving detour.

    Booking note: Confirm both departures and boarding points before booking, allowing time for delays and luggage at the Sarandë connection.

  5. Himarë Sarandë

    Bus Travel time: About 1 hour 45 minutes by bus

    Three buses a day make the 52 km run from Himarë to Sarandë, late morning, mid-afternoon and early evening. By car, stop at Porto Palermo, Qeparo and Borsh.

    Booking note: The evening bus arrives after dark; book a hotel near the centre.

Albanian bus timetables change and are not always online; confirm each departure with your host or at the station the day before, especially on the Berat and coastal legs.

What two weeks cost

The buses for the whole circuit cost less than a single August night on the coast; rooms, boats and sunbeds dominate the budget.

All buses Every leg from Shkodër to Sarandë, plus the Ksamil local bus and the Tirana return if you fly home from there.
Roughly €60–70 per person
Koman ferry Plus the Shkodër–Koman van; online booking is cheaper.
€10 cash each way
Sights Entry to the two castles and Butrint's archaeological park, with a few hundred lek more for the castle museums.
About 300 + 400 + 1,000 lek
Corfu exit Published high-season fares for the Sarandë–Corfu crossing.
About €25–30 by boat

Booking tips

  • Coordinate limited transport departures before fixing hotel nights, especially the Koman outing and the Berat–Gjirokastër and coastal transfers.
  • Agree the southern rental's collection and return locations, cross-border permission and insurance. Do not assume an Albanian rental can be left on Corfu.
  • Carry cash: buses, ferries, castle gates and small guesthouses rarely take cards.

Himarë rooms for three beach days

Stay near Spile or Potam for buses and restaurants on foot, or at Livadh with a car.

Compare Himarë rooms →
Loading Himarë accommodation

Albania from Lake Shkodra to the Ionian

Six bases from the northern lakes to the southern coast; Corfu lies just off Sarandë.

Shkodër → Tirana → Berat → Gjirokastër → Himarë → Sarandë

Before you book the two-week circuit

Is two weeks enough for Albania?

Enough for the north, the capital, both UNESCO towns and two stretches of coast at a relaxed pace. Add five days if you want the Valbona–Theth hike.

Should I rent a car for this route?

For the southern half it helps: it saves the Gjirokastër–Himarë change and adds the Blue Eye and small beaches. In the north and between the towns, buses are frequent. UK advice warns that driving can be aggressive and rural roads poor.

Can I do the route south to north instead?

Yes, but reverse each transport search as well as the hotel order. A departure listed from Berat does not establish the Gjirokastër return timetable. Confirm the reverse connections before booking the route's less flexible nights.

Which months suit this north-to-south circuit?

Late May to June and September. The Koman ferry runs from mid-April, the towns are not yet too hot and the sea is warm from June.

Where should I add an extra night?

In Berat or Gjirokastër if you love history, or in Himarë if the beach is the point. Tirana rarely needs more than one night on a circuit.

Is Albania safe for a two-week independent trip?

Crime targeting visitors is rare. The main risks are road safety, petty theft at transport hubs and unlicensed boat or jet-ski operators.

Timetables, ferries and heritage records for the full circuit

Editorial team StartBooker Editorial Travel guide editorial team

Checked on 2026-10-02

Updated

Research approach: Built from GjirafaTravel timetables for all five legs, the Koman Lake and Corfu ferry operators, Tirana airport's shuttle page, UNESCO, the Butrint ticket office, UK travel advice and Albania's tourism agency, then checked stop by stop against our Shkodër, Tirana, Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë and Sarandë guides. The one-bus Berat link and the change in Sarandë are flagged where they matter.

62 Source records

Responsible and independent sources
  • UNESCO World Heritage Centre
  • Bunk'Art
  • UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office
  • National Tourism Agency of Albania (AKT)
  • Myticket.al
  • INSTAT (Institute of Statistics of Albania)
References
Photo credits

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